Behind-the-Hairline Wig Installs Are the Most Natural Way to Wear Lace Wigs Right Now

You know that wig install where you literally can’t tell where the lace starts?

That’s Ashley Akemi’s signature, and once you see her process, you’ll understand why her booking calendar is full of nothing else.

This method tucks the lace just behind your natural hairline instead of laying it directly on your forehead.

This, therefore, means a more forgiving, ultra-natural finish, even if you’re working with minimal edges.

We tapped hairstylist Ashley Akemi (@ashleyakemi), whose behind-the-hairline installs have basically taken over her TikTok, to break down her exact process.

Akemi says the technique works so well because HD lace has changed the game since “the old days,” letting the hairline disappear in a way that reads as completely natural, no matter your hair texture or edge situation.

“Look how natural this looks; she only has out like a tiny bit of hair,” Akemi says of one client, noting the technique is a great option for anyone who feels self-conscious about thin or nonexistent edges.

It’s also a solid pick if you’re just not a fan of how lace looks sitting directly on your forehead.

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The Step-by-Step Behind-the-Hairline Install

@ashleyakemi

Seamless Behind the Hairline Wig Install woiiiiiiii 😍😍😍😍😍 soooo natural!! My fav wig install to do. Completely glueless, and we started the service with the kind of hair care you need to keep your natural hair healthy under your wig ✨ Lace tint: TruMatch Lace Conceal in the shade Bronze @trumatchlaceconceal Hair care: Growth Booster Shampoo & Conditioner, Growth Elixir Drops & Growth Oil all from @trumatchlaceconceal Booking link in my bio. See ya soon girlies ❤️

♬ original sound – Ashley Akemi 🖤

1. Prep With a Proper Cleanse

Before anything touches the scalp, Akemi starts with the TruMatch Growth Booster Shampoo and Conditioner.

This step matters especially if you’re keeping braids in under a wig for weeks at a time.

“It’s so important to make sure that you’re cleansing your scalp and moisturizing your hair properly before you put that wig on,” she says.

The formula is designed to stimulate the scalp and cleanse without stripping natural moisture.

2. Treat the Edges First

Edges take the most stress under a wig, so they get special attention.

Akemi applies the TruConnoisseur Solutions Growth Elixir Drops directly to the client’s edges, “because you know this is where her hair is the most fragile.“

Next, the Growth Oil goes over the remaining scalp to keep everything hydrated through however long the install stays in; key for protecting hair health during those multi-week braid-and-wig stretches.

3. Tint the Lace then Place it

Once the hair care is done, it’s time to match the lace to the skin.

Akemi reaches for her go-to: TruMatch’s lace tint in Bronze.

“This is the only lace tint I’ll ever use; I’ve been using this tint for a couple years now,” she says.

What you get is a seamless blend right where the lace meets skin behind the hairline.

Once the tint has dried, gently position the wig so the lace edge sits just behind your natural hairline, not on top of it, pressing it flat against the scalp until it disappears into your skin.

5. Sew the Install for Security

Rather than glue, Akemi does the entire install with needle and thread, sewing around the wig and into the lace for extra hold.

This is what makes the technique completely glueless while still staying secure.

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6. Style It Undone, On Purpose

The final step is all about styling the hairline to look like it was never styled at all.

You can lay your edges in the most natural way, too.

Akemi also didn’t part the hair or overthink placement; she just tousled it back for a soft, lived-in finish.

“We were going for a more natural, tousled look, like messy baby hairs, just naturally occurring looking hairline,” she explains.

“It looks so amazing on her hair; it looks really good, but doesn’t look like it was too on purpose.“

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“If you didn’t like lace before, I promise I’ll turn you into a believer,” Akemi.

Whether your edges are thriving or taking a season off, this install proves you don’t need a perfect hairline to get a perfect-looking one.

Book with Akemi, or with your own stylist, request HD lace, and don’t skip the scalp prep too.